- 1958 FORD THUNDERBIRD NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INSTALL
- 1958 FORD THUNDERBIRD NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH DRIVER
- 1958 FORD THUNDERBIRD NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH MANUAL
- 1958 FORD THUNDERBIRD NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH PLUS
I'll just say that it is extremely easy to do, and it definitely helps if all the components in the steering column are in good working condition, namely the steering detent plate and shift lever, as well as the centering cone at the bottom of the steering column.
1958 FORD THUNDERBIRD NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH MANUAL
The procedure for this is well documented in the shop manual on page 5-11 so I won't repeat it here. Keep in mind that you need to adjust the transmission linkage before adjusting the neutral safety switch. Here's how the neutral safety switch should look when installed properly. Then when I get used to working on my Ford, it's back to the Chevy for something (and I am now completely redoing a '55 Chevy pickup, including wiring and building a 302 = Z-28 engine) = DUH! And a T-Bird's GROUND system is a real pain.Ĭan you guys peak under your Dashes please and tell me which way the WIRES from the NSS point, UP toward the Steering Wheel or DOWN toward the floorboard, as they come out of the Neutral Safety Switch? Having Chevys most of my life, switching to working on a Ford can be confusing. Hard to replace but very easy to jump and test both Solenoid and Starter without removal.
From what I have seen on-line, now FoMoCos are like GMs, with the Solenoid on top of the Starter. No linkages were touched except for moving the shift lever. But this problem is why I thought I may have put the NSS in upside down. I did check the Vacuum first as that is a most obvious cause and the vacuum was OK / undisturbed. I had not disconnected anything related to the Trans other than the NSS. Found shifting the steering hard to one side or the other gets a key linkage out of the way (think its called the Tie Rod.) No I have not replaced IGN Sw lately.
1958 FORD THUNDERBIRD NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH PLUS
Plus the Starter is a bear to get in and out. The locked" engaged Starter implies the 'welded' Solenoid contacts could be it, good thinking. I will try your tests FIRST, before removing Starter.
1958 FORD THUNDERBIRD NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH DRIVER
Petersburg, Largo, Florida or even over the entire Tampa Bay area to help.ĪNYONE out there have ANY IDEAS OR SUGGESTIONS? I have spent much of SIX WEEKS on this problem and just can't get my daily driver Bird back on the road. I do not know of another knowledgable T-Bird source in the Clearwater, St. The Ford dealership used to call him for help on T-Birds. I do not think that is the current problem.ĭon, my local T-Bird authority has retired.
1958 FORD THUNDERBIRD NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INSTALL
It can install either way, but reversing it would cause the wires to connect to different points than they do now (I THINK). I am pretty sure when I removed the NSS the wire bundle pointed up the shaft toward the Steering Wheel, but I am not positive and my Manual has VERY little info on the NSS. I am wondering if I may have put the NSS in backward. Tomorrow I'll remove it and try a bench test again. I am guessing I may have fried the Starter again. This evening,, with the Ignition Switch OFF and the NSS REMOVED the Battery?s negative still arcs when trying to reconnect it.
Repeated tries were causing the battery post and the end of the cable to pit badly. But now each time he tried to reconnect it, even with the Ignition Switch OFF the negative cable would ARC. Again and again the Starter kept spinning and he disconnected the Battery quickly each time. I next got my son to stand-by the negative Battery cable while I tried again and again to position the Switch. Then while trying to get it to crank in Park the Starter stuck and again it took a bit to get out from under the dash and disconnect the battery. I maneuvered the switch about some more making several start attempts. It took me about 30-45 seconds (seemed like minutes) to get out from under the dash (I'm 73 and partly disabled) and disconnect the Battery's negative cable. Filling that made no difference, still would not shift.īack home I moved the switch about some more and during one of the start tests the Starter stuck engaged. I checked the Transmission's oil level and it was a quart low. Took the car out for a test drive and now it would not shift. Reassembled the switch and moved it about to find the point where the Starter would work in both Neutral and Park. Removing the NSS I cleaned the 4 long "strap-like" contacts with a cone shaped contact point on the end of each strap on the Switch and then the 2 brass-looking strips IN the Steering Column shaft. This time replacing the Starter, it started right away.īut in the process of searching everything to solve the problem, I also looked into the Neutral Safety Switch (NSS). It took two Starters and 3 Solenoids to solve getting my '63 T-Bird to start. The leads to the Brushes were now burnt clean through.
Then took the Starter back to the shop I had used for years. Then took the Starter out and bench tested it, but no Starter rotation.
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